Cricket and biryani go together like baseball and hot dogs
The cricket match between Pakistan and India on Sunday is arguably the most awaited event of the Cricket World Cup. The fierce rivalry between the two nations extends beyond the pitch, creating a charged atmosphere whenever their teams face off. Despite the tension, fans from both sides share a mutual love for one thing: biryani. This beloved rice dish, celebrated across the Indian subcontinent, becomes the star at cricket matches. Around the World Cup stadium in East Meadow, N.Y., desi restaurants cater to this culinary passion, each offering their unique take on biryani.
Close to the stadium in Eisenhower Park, three biryani shops draw crowds with their halal meat options, limited beef choices, and a variety of vegetarian dishes. Yet, biryani stands out as the most popular item on all their menus. Biryani's association with cricket stems partly from the game's format. Traditional cricket matches last up to five days, with fans indulging in multiple meals from morning till evening. Meal breaks are integral to the game itself. Though the World Cup games are shorter, akin to a baseball match, they still feature extended pauses, perfect for enjoying a spoonful of biryani with its medley of meat, rice, yogurt, and condiments.
With over 35 varieties of biryani across the subcontinent, each city offers a distinct flavor profile. The cricket rivalry between India and Pakistan mirrors their biryani preferences. In India, vegetarian biryani, along with chicken and mutton, dominates due to cultural and religious practices, with beef being largely avoided by Hindus. Conversely, in Pakistan, meat biryani is preferred, excluding pork, which is forbidden in Islam. In East Meadow, desi restaurants cater to both Hindu and Muslim customers, showcasing this culinary diversity. At Sahar's Kitchen and Chai, Mohammed Rehman serves a Karachi-style biryani with raita on the side, embodying traditional Pakistani flavors.
Rehman enjoys watching cricket with a plate of biryani. "Biryani is a quick eat and fills you up," he says, describing the regional differences: “Pakistani biryani is drier with more sauce on top, Indian biryani is spicier, and Bangladeshi biryani is more curried.” The Royale Restaurant & Bar offers both alcoholic beverages and meat dishes, yet it remains a favorite among devout Muslims and vegetarian Hindus. Owner Amrinder Singh emphasizes the restaurant's respect for all religions and ethnicities, tailoring recipes to meet diverse dietary needs.
The Royale’s menu reflects subcontinental diversity with dishes like prawn and cheese biryani, making it a go-to spot for authentic Hyderabadi biryani. Spice & Curry Kabab & Grill, the oldest desi restaurant in the area, despite its Pakistani label, does not regularly serve beef biryani, reserving it for special orders. Owner Naveed Haroon explains, "Beef biryani is not very common. We make it on special orders. We also customize vegetarian options, including chickpea biryani.”
Both Indian and Pakistani fans flock to these restaurants for biryani-filled cricket screenings. The competitive banter is ever-present, but hostility is left at the door. "It's all politics. In Nassau County, Indians and Pakistanis get along well," Haroon says. Amrinder Singh agrees, sharing his friendship with a Pakistani roommate as an example of unity. "He lives in Virginia. He comes to see me — I go to see him. The emotions are the same."
Both Singh and Haroon believe that the U.S. co-hosting the Cricket World Cup will significantly boost the sport's popularity in America and introduce biryani to a broader audience. But are they ready to serve a diverse crowd? A peek into Spice & Curry’s kitchen reveals their meticulous biryani preparation process.
First, oil is heated in a large pot. Dried onions and fresh tomato puree are added, followed by a blend of spices like red chili powder, turmeric, and coriander. Once the sauce is ready, basmati rice is mixed in. Meat or vegetables are then added to create various biryani types. Despite their cricket loyalties, fans are united by their love for biryani. "The food is going to unite the love. No matter the rivalry on the field, when they return, they'll enjoy the food," Singh says.
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